Step Inside La Scala For an Unforgettable Milanese Experience

La Scala boasts a rich programme, staging a sizeable number of lesser known works alongside crowd favourites like Aida and Tosca. Toscanini’s time here as artistic director was one of the most prolific periods in operatic history

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A Brief History of La Scala

The Teatro alla Scala opened in August 1778 with a performance of Antonio Salierei's Europa riconosciuta. Constructed after a fire destroyed its predecessor, the Teatro Regio Ducale, and commissioned by Empress Maria Theresa, the La Scala theatre was built on the former site of its namesake church of Santa Maria alla Scala. With 3000 seats divided into the stalls, six tiers of boxes and two galleries, La Scala soon became the hot spot for Milanese nobility. Patrons seated in the galleries were known to heckle or cheer singers and performers depending on their prowess on stage or their failure to meet expectations. Gamblers frequented the opera and made it at times an unsavoury experience, as was discovered in 1840 by Mary Shelley, who noted that gamblers from the casino in the theatre's foyer would often continue their transactions in the stalls. La Scala was initially lit by over a thousand oil lamps, with hundreds of water-filled buckets kept on standby in case a fire broke out. All catastrophes were fortunately avoided, and the oil lighting gave way to gas lamps and eventually to electric lights in 1883. The building suffered damage during the Second World War but reopened just three years later. It then closed once more for refurbishment and reopened in 2004 with a performance of Salieri's very same Europa riconosciuta, which had not been performed isince the opening La Scala show in 1778. History is indeed proven to repeat itself.

The Verdi Connection

After gaining a reputation for premiering famous productions, many celebrity composers soon began to frequent La Scala. One such case was Giuseppi Verdi, who initially refused to have his works staged here, complaining that the orchestra corrupted his music. Verdi subsequently made peace with La Scala, with his penultimate opera Otello and his final opus Falstaff staged here.

Attending a Performance at La Scala

Watching an opera in the opulent surroundings and charged atmosphere of La Scala is sure to conjure ideas and images of 18th century nobility. One noteworthy result of the theatre's refurbishment is the small screen in the back of each seat which provides subtitles synced to the opera performances in both English and Italian, much to the relief of international audiences. Try getting a front-row seat if you're in the gallery area or you might end up standing for the rest of the performance in order to see properly. At times, it is possible to approach staff at the end of a scene to request a seat change; they may just upgrade your seat to help you enjoy a better viewing and acoustic experience. Binoculars can also really help to catch the finer nuances of the actors' expressions. As most operas stretch well over two hours, the in-house bar offers refreshing cocktails and fruit champagnes between acts. Make sure you're appropriately dressed for the occasion, as almost everyone else likely will be.

The Guided Tour

If catching a performance here isn't possible, the next best thing is to book a guided tour around the venue. Don't fret if you're not a big opera connoisseur; the experienced guides will be sure to entertain seasoned opera enthusiasts and newbies alike with witty anecdotes, comprehensive knowledge and unbridled passion. The tour shows off La Scala's magnificent interiors, private boxes and grand foyer, while the museum explores a world of famous directors, singers and composers. Exhibiting the musical instruments, paintings, costumes, scores and memorabilia of the stars, the museum traces the momentous history of Italian opera through the centuries. If you're lucky, you may just be able to catch a dress rehearsal or witness the stage being lifted up. The guided tour offers a splendid chance to look around the theatre itself without the crowds of a performance night. Photography is permitted in the theatre so long as there is no flash.

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